Improvement in plaited shirt-bosoms



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ABRAHAM DREY, or BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

lMPP OVEMENTlN PLAITED SHlPtT-BOSOMS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 43, I06, dated June 14,1864, antedatcd June 5, 1864.

To all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, ABRAHAM DkEY, of the city and county of Baltimore,State of Maryland, have inventedla new andIm proved Mode of IlaitingShirt'Bosoms; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full,clear, and exact description thereof, reference being bad to theaccompanying drawings, making a part of this specification, in which-Figure 1 represents my improved shirtbosom when it is finished. Fig. 2shows an edge view of the bosom. Figs. 3 and 4 show the mode of applyingthe outer material to the lining or backing.

Similar letters of reference indicate corresponding parts in the severalfigures.

The object of this invention is to manufacture shirtbosoms which, whilethey have all the appearance of the common, fine, fullplaited bosom,will require less fine material, less fine sewing, and less labor thansuch bosoms.

The invention consists in a new mode of applying the fine material,which is to form the plaits, to a lining or backing, which is topreserve the form of the plaits when made, whereby I am enabled toproduce each plait and toattach the same to the lining or backing at oneand the same operation, said plaits being so formed and applied to thelining that the sewing will not be exposed to view and need nottherefore be as neat as ordinary stitching, as will be hereinafterdescribed.

To enable others skilled in the art to make and use my invention, I willdescribe its construction.

It is desirable to employ in the manufacture of theimproved bosoms avery cheap material for thebacking or lining of the shirt-bosoms, and afine and more expensive material for the outside of the bosom, and indescribing my invention I shall distinguish these two materials by usingthe words cotton and linen, al though any kind of cloth may be employed.A piece of linen of any desirable width and length is spread over a flatsurface and smoothed out, and parallel lines are marked on its insidesurface at equal distances apart. These lines are intended to serve asguides in folding and ridging the lines, so that all the plaits will beof a uniform width. The linen may be creased at each line, either byhand or by machinery,

suitably adapted to the purpose for the purpose of facilitating thesewing of it to the cotton backing. The cotton backing is also markedofl' in parallel lines, which are not the same distance apart as thelines or creases upon the linen. The width of the spaces between thelines on the cotton determines the distances for the ridges on thelinen, and the lines or creases on the linen determine the amount ofmaterial to be put in each plait, as will be hereinafter described.Having prepared the two pieces of cloth in this way, 1 proceed to putthem together and to form the plaits in the follow in g manner: Icommenceby spreading the cotton backing at out smoothly and bringing oneof the creases b in the linen on a line with one of the marks made onthe cotton lining a. Ithen sew through the two thicknesses of linen andthrough the lining, as near to the edge of the crease b as possible, theupper piece of cloth being in the condition or position shown in Fig. 4during this operation. The linen is now drawn over the crease or ridge bthus formed, as shown in Fig. 3, forming the fold c, which is afterwardironed .down, so as to present the flat and smooth appearance shown inFigs. 1 and 4. The next crease in the linen is then brought even withthe next line 'on the cotton and sewed down as before, thus forming thefirst plait. The plaits are in this manner formed by stitching the linento the lining a, each row of stitching forming one plait and attachingthe same to the cotton lining. It Will be seen from this descriptionthat every row of stitching is covered by the succeeding plait or fold,and hence it will not be necessary to have the sewing as neat as it isrequired in plaited bosoms hitherto made, wherein all the stitches areseen on the surface of the bosom. In thus applying the creased linen tothe cotton backing, 1 form a ridge, 1), and a fold, a, which lattershould project sufficiently far over to prevent the stitches (seam) frombeing seen. The ridges I) serve to elevate the folds and to give to thebosom when finished the appearance of being full plaited, although onlyone half of the linen in my bosom is required to. form these plaits orimitation plaits.

I accomplish by this invention two very important obj ects'-viz., agreat economyin linen and a saving of labor, whether the work be done byhand or by machinery. The fullplaited bosoms require three thicknessesof linen for each plait, the folds all being required of an equal width,and as these extra thicknesses do not add any strength or durability tothe bosom, there is a large amount of linen necessarily consumed, whichis saved by my invention.

If it is desired, the linen may be stitched in ridges previously tosewing it to the cotton lining, and then in applying this ridged linento the lining the rows of stitching may be made along the previouslymade ridges. 7

It is also obvious that the linen may be ap plied directly to the shirt,so that the cotton bosom of the shirt Will form the lining, and thismode I now practice, but in order to save expense when the shirtingmaterial or body stutt' is high it is desirable'to cut the space out ofthe body stuff and insert a coarser and cheaper material therein as thebacking to the bosoms. I consider both modes one and the same thing. I

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent,is-- Uniting the surface ridged or creased material to the shirting orback lining of shirtbosoins, by stitching through the creases or ridgesand through the lining, substantially in the manner described.

ABRAHAM DREY.

Witnesses:

R0131. W. FENwroK, E. SCHAFER.

